Oh how well I slept in our Hilton cocoon. It was a treat to stay in such a nice hotel.
Husband and I had debated about taking the bus to Teotihuacan because it was reportedly very inexpensive and easy. But given how easily we'd managed getting around with Uber, we decided to take that instead. We had a clean, newer car and safe driver. We had a good conversation about politics--their election campaigning had just started.
It took about an hour and 15 minutes to get to Puerta 1 at Teotihuacan. I had printed out an archaeologist's guide to the site. We generally succeeded in following it. We did miss walking over to the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent so I was glad we'd seen its display at the Museo de Antropologia the day before.
It was not crowded. It was bright but not hot. The distances between pyramids was pretty extensive. The site was really interesting.
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| The Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent in the background |
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| Pyramid of the Sun in the background |
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| Walking along a quiet road with great views |
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| Incense brazier |
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| The teotihuacanos used shells to bring the marine into their ceremonies |
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| Model of the site |
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| Pretty cool view out the windows |
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| Architectural crenellation |
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| Crenellation |
Because we "had" to, we climbed the first level of the Pyramid of the Sun. It was pretty strenuous, partly because we're out of shape but also because of the altitude.
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| View from the first level of the Pyramid of the Sun |
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| Mural of a Puma in the Puma Complex |
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| Pyramid of the Moon in the background |
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| On the Pyramid of the Moon with the Sun in the background |
We ducked into the Quetzalpapalotl Patio for a quick look around as we were leaving.
All in all, we were impressed by the Teotihuacan complex. It was well signed, easily accessed, and interesting. Hat, water, and sunscreen were definitely needed. We got there around 10am and left around 12:45pm.
We waited about 10 minutes for an Uber ride. We had enabled our phone plans so didn't have any issues with connectivity but this was the longest we had to wait for a ride.
The driver took us to Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, about 45 minutes. We were starving so chose Zenon Restaurant for lunch because it looked popular. The food was basic but quite tasty. The service was attentive. The mariachis were pretty good (although husband had me pay them not to play at our table!).
Guadalupe is the patron saint of Mexicans. She's extremely revered. The original Basilica is from the 1600's and much too small to accommodate all of the pilgrims and faithful who visit every day. It's also sinking badly (as are many buildings in Mexico City). In the 1970's, the new Basilica was constructed. It's a gorgeous, mid-century modern (ish) house of worship. I loved it. The entire ceiling is this gorgeous, warm wood, curved in all the right ways. The floors are terrazzo. The doors all open to let in so much light. It's fabulous. There were masses going on basically the whole time we were there, very well attended.
The old Basilica--very old, very traditional, very out-of-plumb, way too small. But beautiful.
Around the corner is a giant statue of Pope John Paul II.
Further along, is this garden area, the two figures recreate when Guadalupe appeared to peasant Juan Diego.
There's a museum in the Old Rectory. It was much more extensive than we expected. I think the entrance fee was like 50 pesos. It wasn't crowded in there. It was very well done.
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| Ex-voto plates |
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| This is the image you see everywhere |
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| Juan Diego |
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| Blas de Torres, La Tota Pulchra |
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| Jose de Iberia, Asuncion de la Virgen |
There's a conveyor belt sort of thing behind the altar so you can get a little closer to the Cloak of Juan Diego with the image of La Guadalupe on it.
We called for an Uber back to the hotel. It was about a 30 minute trip.
The three rides this day cost us--total--$47. A real bargain!
From the hotel, we meandered down to the Zocalo. We went looking for another terrace to have drinks. We ended up at the Majestic Hotel. Their bar faces the side so you can only see the Cathedral--a very pretty sight. Their terrace looking onto the Zocalo is for the restaurant only. The staff were surly but we didn't let that bother us. We had a couple of beers and relaxed.
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| Majestic view of the Cathedral |
Around 545pm, we headed out, aiming for the Gran Hotel Cuidad de Mexico. When we came out to the Zocalo, the giant flag was flying. It was windy so it made this awesome boom sound--so cool. We had noticed Army vehicles around the Cathedral and wondered what was going on.
Once we were seated on the terrace of the Gran Hotel, the waiter told us it was time for "EL retiro de la bandera que sucede cada dia a las 6 de la tarde." (the flag lowering ceremony). We ordered our drinks and stood with everyone else on the terrace to watch the spectacle, which took about 20-25 minutes. It's quite the ceremony.
We watched the sun set over the Zocalo and enjoyed our drinks.
We finally felt a bit peckish and decided to get tacos at Salon Corona not far away.
The tacos were super inexpensive and very tasty, as was the beer. A perfect nightcap. The place seemed filled with locals.
We meandered back to the hotel. The streets were still filled with people. We liked how alive the area was at all hours of the day and night.
Takeaways:
1. Teotihuacan did not disappoint
2. I loved the Basilica de Guadalupe complex. The museum was a lovely surprise
3. Local food joints-yes, please!
4. Bars with views of the Zocalo--yes, please!
5. Uber was perfect for us, and so inexpensive.
Next: El Centro Historico, storms, and The Killers!
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