Tuesday, April 3, 2018

Great museums and great food


Day 2: 3 April: Museo de Antropologia, Museo Soumaya at Plaza Carso, and great food

Today we ate too much.  We didn't start off the day planning to eat too much but we certainly did. Maybe it's a consequence of loving Mexican food and not having access to the good stuff at home...

After a great breakfast in the Executive Lounge, we took Uber to the Museo de Antropologia in Bosque de Chapultepec. It was a quick ride through pretty streets. We got to gaze at the Angel de Reforma on the way.

It was a gorgeous morning and the Jacarandas were in full bloom.




We paid our entrance fee, so cheap!, and entered the open forum with the massive concrete ceiling held up by the lone pillar.  It was under renovation but impressive nonetheless.


The building itself was just gorgeous.  The architect, Pedro Ramirez Vasquez, thoughtfully incorporated past and present in a most pleasing manner.  We loosely followed Jim Johnson's guide and wandered through the interesting displays.  This is one of the best museums we've visited.  The only crowded area was by the "Aztec Calendar Stone" (aka, Stone of the Sun).


Cave painting, Lascaux


The Rat's Cave


Jim Johnson's guide suggests walking in this pretty, secluded "secret garden" where reproductions of monuments from all over are installed.


We enjoyed the Teotihuacan section.
God of Death
Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent
Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent
Temple of the Feathered Serpent
Human teeth and shells offering to Quetzalcoalt





We next wandered to the World of the Mexicas section.
A ballgame of some sort was played with these


Stone of the Sun

Stone of the archbishopric; aka Stone of Moctezuma I
Stone of the archbishopric; aka Stone of Moctezuma I

God of Water
We wandered outside to see more reproduced installations of monuments.
God of Death
This is in Guatemala

We exited and were deciding how to get to our next stop, Publico Comedor, when husband noticed crowds gathering in the park behind the stalls of vendors.  He knew the Voladores de Paplanta sometimes performed and we were lucky to get there just before they started.  A very interesting spectacle!

I didn't get pictures of them at the top of the pole and I can't get the videos to work :(


The Jacarandas were so very pretty!
After the Voladores, we took an official taxi to Publico Comedor for lunch.  It was in Polanco, surrounded by chichi stores, leafy streets, and pretty houses.  The food was outstanding! We ordered too much (I don't have pictures of the shrimp tacos or desert) and ate it all.
Enchipoladas
Chilaquiles
Croquetas de hongos y queso Oaxaca
Stuffed and happy, we walked to the Soumaya Museum.  This was one of my "must-see's" and it did not disappoint.

The building itself is ridiculously beautiful and I didn't get a good picture of it :(  The art inside was interesting and well displayed. We liked that many paintings were hanging so that you could see their backs.
Rodin's Gates of Hell in bronze
Rodin's Cathedral
Rodin's Three Shades
Rodin's The Martyr
Monet, 1887, Landscape
Renoir, 1890-1900,  Nude Woman Sitting
Khalil Gibran, 1910, Ages of Women
Khalil Gibran
El Greco, 1587-1596, Tears of Saint Peter
Hispanic-Filipino work, 1601-1650, Holy Family
Anonymous, early 18th C, Lord of the Column




After the Soumaya, we took Uber back to the hotel, dropped off our little souvenirs, and decided to try the drinks at Tio Pepe's Cantina.  It has a gorgeous wooden bar (reminded me a little of the one at Tujaque's in New Orleans), attentive waiters, good bartenders, and local color.  We knew we'd be back!

We walked back to the hotel, enjoying the sights and sounds of the city.




We had dinner reservations at Quintonil and arrived there easily by Uber.

I'm a picky eater (no red meats, no pork, no garlic) so I chose Quintonil over Pujol because they seemed more willing to accommodate picky eaters.  And did they ever! Being able to communicate my dislikes and restrictions in Spanish was the key, though.  I think the waiters (Armando, primarily, and Fernando) took feeding me as a challenge. :)

It turned out to be one of the best meals either of us has eaten.  And we absolutely loved the atmosphere and service, too.  Next time in CDMX, we definitely want to go back.

Huauzontles in tomato sauce (OK)
Charred avocado with (and without) escamoles
WOW!
Crab tostada WOW!
Catch of the day adapted to my taste (no garlic + fried kale) WOW!!
Duck WOW!

Completely full and very happy, we ubered back to the hotel for the night.

Takeways:
1.  The food is great! We ate too much and didn't regret one bite.
2.  Uber is so easy in CDMX
3.  The Museo de Antropologia is world famous for a reason: it's outstanding!
4.  The Soumaya at Plaza Corso is a gorgeous building with fabulous art. I especially appreciated the special display on Khalil Gibran.  And it's free and open every day.
5.   Quintonil exceeded our expectations. We will definitely be back!

Next:  Teotihuacan and Basilica de Guadalupe

1 comment:

  1. I'm really enjoying your reports on Mexico City. We live in Mexico but have not been to CDMX yet. Planning our first visit in March. Wonderful descriptions and great photos.

    ReplyDelete

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